I don't know if the trans will be smart enough on its own to cancel the lockup for you in that situation. You lock up the brakes with the trans lockup on, and you run the risk of having the engine die and losing your power brakes right when you need them. Sooner or later you're going to encounter a situation where to you have to hammer the brakes when some other driver does something stupid, and you're not going to remember (or have time) to flip the manual switch off. Here's a few diagrams of 2004R & 700R4 lockups that can help. ![]() 350C only locks up in 3rd gear so there must be a pressure switch on VB. When vacuum dropped from depressing the accelerator it would disengage the lockup. Not knowing how the trans will behave if this circuit is always energized, I would still add the manual switch in that line somewhere so that the circuit was only on when I wanted it to be, then the other two act as fail-safes.įWIW, I would be sure to wire in at least the brake switch. The 350C also used a vacuum switch on the carb/intake in conjunction with the brake switch. In this arrangement, the current passes through both switches, and it is always on until one of the two switches cancels it. This video shows how to take apart a TH350-C automatic transmission and the tools necessary for proper disassembly of the Turbo 350 GM transmission. The brake and vacuum switches will have no effect on lockup. ![]() Assuming the green wire is connected to the IGN port (don't know what 'test' port is) on the fuse box, 12V will flow directly down the green wire to the trans and trigger the lockup circuit as long as the ignition is on. Yeah, I saw that, and that one won't work as drawn. Last edited by thatfnthing on Mon 6:19 pm edited 3 times in total (Reason for editing : add'l info) I would guess these are all for safety reasons and the 350C will likely follow a similar rule - you probably won't be able to test it until you drive it. So Park, Neutral, 1st, and Reverse all will have no lockup if you flip the switch. You really can't burn it out short of giving it the wrong voltage.Īlso, at least with the 200, the lockup will not occur until you are in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th gear. If you havent started using NiCop over steel, you are missing out. When the power stops, the plunger resets due to an internal spring. Replacing the kinked and leaking steel transmission cooler lines with NiCopp lines. A solenoid is a very simply device anyway - if there's power running through the windings, the magnetic field is energized and it fires (or retracts) its plunger. The solenoid will simply not do anything because no juice is passing through it. If the one terminal is indeed a ground and you plug the positive wire into it, the only thing that should happen when you flip the switch is that the 10A fuse in the fuse panel will blow, because you just gave it a direct path to ground with no resistance on it. ![]() But since its winter here and Real bad weather, i cant test it before spring. I have Wired it now and nothing started to smoke or other stupid things when i flipped the switch. Hs1973 wrote:But i was just wondering If i by mistake switch the wires and Ground the Wrong plug, i would hurt something or it just would not work at all.
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